Tap in for pressure checks after the fuel pump before the fuel filter. But, you need to test it with tool to pin point the problem before rebuild the car completely. Many of you have tried replacing the Computer, Shut Down Relay, Map Sensor, Crank Sensor if applicable , and even the fusible links Well I have fixed four of this mini-vans I am going to pass arround some of the things I found wrong. You have to look for injector pulses too, but in this case, concentrate on the no spark. Your fault sounds like mine.
I pulled a spark plug and held it up in the cabin area against the engine block to see if a spark was visible. May 2010: Fifteen months after the starter relay fix, Big Blue successfully made another cross-the-nation road trip. I did have one fail intermittently and I chased it for over a year on my '88 Grand Caravan. A bad pickup inside the distributor on engines that have a distributor , a stripped. The pressure regulation is done with the regulator at the throttle carburetor body in much the same manner as a thermostat spring lets excess pressure return to the tank.
A vacuum hose on the top of the regulator helps move the diaphram lowers the fuel pressure? I thought there'd be an ignition box or module or something. It runs fine to start and idle, so I don't think it's a timing issue. When the voltage doesn't reappear during cranking, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. The van won't start to get it to Auto Zone. Then I tried to start and it happily cranked over and over with plenty of power, but did not fire once. I considered using the old gasket but maybe it was a little torn in the middle and may have had a slightly different shape rubbing against the gear.
Jack Ken Wells 7-10-08 My 1992 Dodge Ram Pickup is doing same thing? The camshaft position sensor in the distributor controls the firing of the injectors. I almost got the air conditioning compressor out to replace my broken one but one bolt was rusted up badly. I was a little confused why nothing else would indicate during this. Looks like my 8-cylinder 5. Sunday 2 weeks : Replacement computer didn't change anything. Use a tubing bender to get the brake line about right. No drilling was required, but I did use a high pressure air hose and blow out a lot of dirt and stones from the body frame before inserting the bolts.
Initially a quick tap to see if there would be a spark. But not sure what causes that to activate. It was still running on the junk-yard 6-cylinder computer. Is there a way to check the Cam Sensor with an ohm meter or do you have to check it via a scanner? I've checked all relays with ohmeter and all relays are good. Hi, I've been working on a 92 Plymouth voyager 3.
The rotor should move within about 6 degrees of crank movement. You need to determine if there is a fuel supply. Excuse me for jumping in here. This is shown in the second picture below. This is to limit the current flow so the ignition coil doesn't burn up. Read whatever codes it spits out from the check engine light. Now I had to replace a second brake line.
Later note - Chilton book has a faster way to diagnose. I imagine it's either the spark, or the fuel, or the air. Put it all back in and now no spark. I've done all the easy things, so its got to be either the crank thingy or that splice 115 i've heard about, or something else? I just didn't end up having the time to spend screwing around with it. Dangling near the bracket was a terminated wire bundle, but when I looked closely, it was not terminated with tape and a plastic plug like other terminate wire bundles.
This management process probably saves money. Maybe cranking could cause a vacuum and increase fuel flow? The symptoms on my van mimicked a bad accelerator pump in a carburetor, which at first didn't make sense. Check this and confirm crank sensor is giving a good signal. This needs to be fixed. The Engine Computer will shut the power supply down to protect it. T he normal switch normal is reversed operationally for the brake switch. .