I can hear the fuel. Finally, ensure that the camshaft rotates, when you crank the engine--open the oil cap and look inside. I had replaced the distributor thinking the ignitor was at falt, battery is good, timing belt and components were changed 29,000 miles ago. I have done the following: checked for voltage at the 2 igniter wires and for continuity at the other. I'd use the type spark plug recommended by your owners manual, the manual may also give you the gap.
That's the only thing I've done in it. When this happens, replace the sensors too or the complete distributor. In particular I was hoping to show the use of a test light to do this diagnosis but didn't get all the footage necessary so I'll go back and shoot that at a later date. . Spark plugs are wet with fuel 3. One should be right under the steering wheel to the left a little. If you crank it and the test light blinks, it means the module called igniter is working and the coil is bad.
Should be a simple flap. Anywhere you buy sparks will have the gap in the info. Removed spark plug wire while engine was running, engine stalled and would not re-start. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Finally, ensure that the camshaft rotates, when you crank the engine--open the oil cap and look inside. On top of the engine, there is a black rectangular plastic cover.
However, I think I had a twist on the situation that Eric described in his video. It still cranks like it wants to start, but will not. Spark plugs have less than 20K miles on them. The best way to not get messed up is to do one wire at a time. Most fuel pumps will make a quiet hum to let you know they are working, but a loudly buzzing pump is often an indication that it's on the way out meaning it's producing far less fuel pressure than you need for the engine to run properly or it's dead but still receiving electrical current. If it doesn't, the timing belt broke.
Electrode Gap Standard New : 1. Other Causes of a no-Spark Engine There are three primary things that will keep the engine from getting a spark: A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter, and a bad distributor. Also I had added some videos that you need to review in order to move in the right direction. One of those brands was original equipment. You can check him and the video out via the link below. You've done a lot of good things for your Civic--nice job.
Not sure of any bulletins 2. You've done a lot of good things for your Civic--nice job. However, the quickest way to check if the main relay is working is to watch the dash engine service light. If there is battery voltage, proceed to step 5. I'm really at a lost to explain why it doesn't.
If the gap is over the standard, adjust the gap with suitable gapping tool. The running voltage was variable between 9. That will help pinpoint the problem for you. The wiring runs down the right side of the timing cover while looking at it from the drivers side of the car. While the engine was idling, I replaced the too-large paper clip in the 2P service check connector, with a smaller one. An ignition coil can check good with an ohm meter; but, have defects which show up when the voltage builds to thousands of volts at sparking time. Remove the crankshaft shaft pulley.
So in the end I feel I had a weak coil. It has plenty of gas but it won't get any spark. The check engine light does not flash to indicate a trouble. I think it might be behind the battery. .
The check engine light turns on for 2 seconds and then shuts off along with the fuel pump. But, my buddy said he thought the color of the spark at the coil was the wrong color; it was yellow and should be more blue. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Remove the two nuts, one on either side. I checked the ground and it seems to be good.