The said that Ford had clipped the rod to the pedal but this clip had come off. This not only spreads the grease evenly but also makes sure you have the correct kit. We all have to start somewhere any help would be appreciated:- its not a difficult job, but if you've never done one before, can be time consuming. Clean the bell housing and remove any debris. The hinge is attached to the pedal by means of a metal rod. Quick question, is it just a simple case of adjusting it, or are we talking new clutch? That rod hanging down is the problem, its a common fault, it was probably just glue holding that rod to the pedal, have a look in the fiesta section you will find many a fix for that, i have seen many talk about using jubilee clips on it or cable ties, luckily mine hasnt done it yet, and also next time you would best to post in the fiesta forum you will get a better bite. I would like to know what tools is needed and how hard it would be to do for my first time is it worth givin it a go or not?? Sun 19 Feb 2006 00:07 Mk 4 Fiesta - clutch position switch? These cars were built without a retaining clip on the clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder, the clip that ford now use is about 0.
It took the mechanic 6 hours to get to the clutch, change it and the slave cyclinder etc. Had my car back from the garage yesterday with Ford saying they'd made some modifications to the clutch pedal. Because itnis such a big job. In a rash moment, I booked the car into a Ford Rapid Fit garage for a vehicle inspection - cost £97-odd - and discovered to my chagrin that I had had a new clutch fitted after all. If the vehicle has alloy wheels fitted then make sure that the locking key is available before starting the job.
Worse, it was no longer slipping. Basically a pin with loads of different adapters to suit thrust bearings and clutch disc used to be able to get the plastic aligners for specific makes, not universal. Even the steering angle and rate at which you turn it is monitored. I had driven the car for nearly 10 years on the same clutch, and saw no reason why the second one should go so quickly. Failure to check and rectify these areas may cause the clutch to operate incorrectly. Support the engine with an engine support beam and remove the three top gearbox mount bolts and carefully raise the vehicle.
They are talking about removing the gear box to look at the clutch. Install the new slave cylinder without pumping the bearing as this will damage the component. Otherwise, you could end up like me, wracked with sometimes unjustified suspicions purely because of my own and other people's previous bad experiences and the car repair industry's generally awful reputation. Normally the resistance comes back after a short time but this morning there was nothing. . Stow the earth cable and hydraulic pipe, including the bracket safely. I looked in my Haines manual and it says it is a clutch position switch, but doesn't say what it does.
Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb replacement procedure. The ford dealer says it will not be a problem with the clip attaching the clutch to the hydraulic cylinder, as this only applies to older models. Also on the fiesta's get them to check the master cylinder rod is connected to the pedal correctly. Nothing too nightmare-ish wrong if thats the case anyway. Your Vehicle is fitted with a hydraulic clutch system if the pedal is going the floor and not actually engaging the clutch, then the chances are that is a fault on the hydraulic side of the system. I now just do them by eye and so far touch wood they have always lined up fine and the box has slotted straight back on. Hope this is of some help.
To this day it is sound. Disconnect the reverse light switch. I have now used a cable tie to prevent the lateral movement of the hinge and it seems to be working. The biting point of the clutch though is getting towards the end of the pedal. Could this intermittent problem be due to some problem with the hydraulics? They put 2 clips on and they both came off again within a week.
To this day it is sound. Stow the leads safely and securely out of the way. Break the cable tie from the bracket and remove the bolt. A friend recommended a garage in Tooting, south London. That is defo the problem. Wipe away any excess grease off the shaft and driven plate hub. My car has done over 40k on the original clutch, some of it in quite hilly urban enviroments so it is probably due a new clutch soon.
I'm glad Ford have started to realise the pointlessness of them though! Remove the bolt for the earth lead that also holds in place the bracket for the slave cylinder pipe. Comparing customer outcomes without the facts would not make any sense. Hello all, Any help really appreciated. My clutch failed and is currently in garage having new clutch and then following problems with the garage being unable to get pressure from the pedal a new master cylinder total cost of Â£600. Some cars were subject to Recall as said in earlier post. We've listed all relevant models here. The wiring loom is cable-tied to a second bracket that is held in place by the starter motor and bell housing bolt.
However, the very same day I picked it up it did it again. Sounds like the slave cyclinder. The clutch is back to working order again but will wait to see if this problem re-occurs! Well yesterday that nothing that every one said turned into a shamefull breakdown in bad traffic lucky i had my mum with me to help push it off the road. Put a small dab of high melting point grease not a copper-based product on the first motion shaft splines and make sure the new driven plate slides freely back and forth. The suspicion dawned that Mr Nice But Dim was really Mr Sneaky And Nasty and had not put in a new clutch.