If you or anyone else could help me with the rest of the problems with my golf that would be great. Even plugging in my Jump Start 12v booster into the cigarette lighter socket meant I didn't have to re-enter the radio code. Then I would remove the cluster for inspection. It happened on a hot day when the car was left at the sun, so maybe a solder joint has come loose. Nice one Partyboy and many thanks. Can anyone help at all, any tricks? Anyway there was two connectors on each side.
This is due to your password not being migrated across during our conversion. Or do i need to do some software stuff to em?. Now the speedo works and the fuel gauge seems to be ok at the mo. You may need to enter the mileage manually with vag tacho as it will be fully reset. And here it is, or not! Unfortunately I can't confirm it actually works, as i get an error with the k-line shorted to ground when trying to use it. I've only got 3 months left to figure out what's wrong before her mot which she will fail 100% with the reverse lights staying on : Sun 1 Feb 2015 10:45 Mk3 vw golf - Can anyone help me with my mk3 vw golf automatic?? It's not that high tech I'm afraid : Sun 1 Feb 2015 19:11 Mk3 vw golf - Can anyone help me with my mk3 vw golf automatic?? But am becoming so annoyed with the clocks.
What does that mean that standing immobile activated? But if the screen has simply reached the end of its life it will likley not show up as an 'error code'. I've looked a lot on the net and various forums, they write the dump can be programmed for different speedometer when you switch , but it's not exactly my strong point, and most are in the German forums. These wiring plugs can be difficult to get at, as they dont give you much extra wire to play with. You'ra aiming for the fuel guages to just fall in line with the bottom of the dash surround. The second way is solder and heat shrink which looks neater and slightly more professional.
So thanks for the superb pictures and instructions, if only all jobs were as easy as this. The kit I used can be used for electronic style I believe also, however thats not covered in this instructable. . This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. I had pretty much the same problem as this, speedo was dead and fuel gauge was erratic and the really annoying beeping drove me insane!! The whole instrument cluster was acting very funny before it happened, sometimes saying please refuel when I have half a tank and sometimes showing a reading on the speedo when stationary. When you login to the cluster using the 4digit codes does it usually give you any indication that it's actually logged in? We can't find any wiring diagrams for a mk3 auto and the Haynes manual is useless! Do you have any idea what to check? Exactly same happened on my mk4.
How to take cluster out to check? Cost me only 2 hours of my time First time I've seen this. The symptoms I had were very similar speedo dips when you take your foot off the gas, fuel gauge suddenly moves, emissions light comes on, radio gets loud. I've taken a lot of them out before on different cars but this one seems like it sits right behind the whole dash. If you follow this tubing down towards where the battery sits, you will find these wires a big trunking of wires which are covered in factory insulation. It is from one green plug to ther other. D8 needs to be jumped to E2.
Is there anything we are missing before we fork out for one of those too? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. The cable did work last time I used it, but that was on a Golf, so I'd suspect its an issue with my car unless its just the wrong version. Tape it up some more. First thing is my rear passsenger door doesnt open or shut. I've been away for a bit. Uploaded the one from the old cluster to the new one and. All of the desired idiot lights could then be wired to leds in the mk2 cluster gp, turns, low coolant battery etc.
I gather that cable is no longer available new and that there are problems getting cruise to work with the mk2 speed sensor in the cluster. Hope there are no professional people who know little about it here. The connector is pretty difficult to get off the pump and you have to squeeze each side of it and it doesn't come out easy. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme This amount includes applicable customs duties, taxes, brokerage and other fees. Well I wanted Remote Central Locking, Many guides on the internet didnt cover what I want or I came across one which I think was actually wrong! Went off and purchased some speaker wire and elec tape, took and followed how to word for word picture for picture. So wasn't sure if my clocks were completely at fault, wiper stalk was at fault or there's something else going on.
. This amount includes applicable customs duties, taxes, brokerage and other fees. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. You will also still need a tach adapter unless i'm mistaken. So as I mentioned in the text there is a central locking pump and switches in the doors fronts only I think and all of the door locks are vacuum operated. Drop the steering wheel down to its lowest setting, theres 2 screws on the lower edge of the bit it sits inside, once those are out it should be more obvious what needs to happen from there you can't see the screws easily under normal circumstances. Unscrew these and remove the housing.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. If it is bad, you will not get an accurate reading. It now reads around 10miles or ~15kms more than actual speed and discovered cruise control doesn't work. If you don't then your central locking may never have worked?! This amount is subject to change until you make payment. Is it more thank likely that a sensor has gone somewhere, or a relay or fuel gauge sender? We finally bit the bullet and took it to a vw dealer for a diagnostic.